Cowbridge as we know it today, however,
developed from the 'new town' established in 1254 by Richard de Clare, Lord of
Glamorgan. The town walls, the church and the burgage plots date from this
time. The subsequent development of Cowbridge has been as a market town for
the Vale of Glamorgan - its stock market still operates every Tuesday. In
addition, it became an educational, administrative and social centre for the
Vale.
The Grammar School was founded in 1608 (and
was owned between 1685 and 1918 by Jesus College, Oxford); the Great Sessions
and Quarter Sessions were held in Cowbridge until the early nineteenth
century; wealthy families of the Vale of Glamorgan built town houses along the
High Street, giving them the right to vote - and lots of social contacts, with
meetings and balls especially in the Assembly Room of the Spread Eagle Inn and
in the Bear Hotel. Another claim to fame is that in the late 1800s there were
27 public houses in existence along the High Street and its continuation in
Eastgate and Westgate.
These street names remind us that in the
medieval walls there were originally four gates which controlled access to the
town. For three of them the main purpose was to collect tolls from those going
to market; the fourth, the North Gate (the base of which was recently
discovered by excavation) only gave access for stock to the marshy lands to
the north. The Eastgate (near the present Town Hall) and the Westgate
(adjoining the Mason's Arms Inn) were removed in the eighteenth century as
they presented a real obstacle to the growing stage coach traffic along the
main road.
The South Gate (shown in the picture at the
top of this page) still remains in good condition however, next to the Grammar
School, though it has lost its one-time upper room. Of the walls themselves,
the best preserved stretches run along the west, from The Mason's Arms on the
High Street to a circular bastion in the south west corner (there is a
pleasant walkway along the walls here), and then along the south side past the
Southgate to another bastion on the comer of the Grammar School gardens. On
the north side of the town, the burgage plots have encroached beyond the wall
and the town ditch, so the evidence is very occasional - in changes in
stonework in the burgage plot walls and in signs 9f subsidence over the filled
in ditch!
Cowbridge today is a prosperous, bustling
little town, famed for its restaurants, antique shops and boutiques, with a
wealth of fine eighteenth- and nineteenth-century buildings, many of which
were built around earlier structures. Particularly noteworthy are the town
houses like Woodstock House, Old Hall, Caecady House and Great House. The
church is large and was known as the Cathedral of the Vale, with a south aisle
donated in 1473 by Lady Ann Neville, wife of Richard III. Cowbridge is well
worth a visit!
More information about Cowbridge and the
surrounding area is available on the Vale
of Glamorgan's website.